The Dales Way – Day 2

Day 2 dawned – still wet, with a chilly but windless morning. After worrying that Chris wasn’t going to rise at all (he had still been snoring at 830), we got going at about 10am – after spending 45 minutes breaking camp and re packing bags. Instead of racing on we knew that time was on our side, so elected for a full English at the very pleasant Wilf’s cafe in Staveley. Like many travelers, we had that strange sensation of feeling somewhat unwashed whilst sharing space with those who had slept in a bed: but a slightly smug feeling of knowing that we were engaged in a worthy challenge, whilst others went about ordinary business.

Food consumed, we retraced our steps, passed the friendly pub and got back onto the route.

The way was easy and the rain wasn’t constant, but appeared to give us rest breaks every now and then. We followed the river for several miles. About half way along the route we’d planned we got the stove on for a brew and snack whilst the rain hammered around us – having increased considerably, and some swans kept us company – also apparently sheltering from the weather. There were a few Hawthorns and a bank by a small copse of trees, that kept off the worst of the weather. We cleaned up and packed away before turning east towards Grayrigg – where we hoped to find a spot to camp. There were ducks and the odd bird of prey, but no human life and we both commented that we hadn’t seen anyone else walking the official route since we set off.

By 5pm we had consulted phones several times to make sure we had our route and were approaching Greyrigg Farm – at the foot of the fell. Rather than climb out and potentially spend a wind swept night on the fell without knowing the lie of the land I asked a gent working on a Land Rover whether he knew of a decent place to camp for the night on the leaward side of the fell. It turned out that he owned the farm and was very happy for us to camp in the long back garden of the farm house for a small fee. There was running water and a small dry room with a toilet and power (this felt like luxury!) – so we took him up. The garden itself was beautifully kept and the grass spongy – perfect for a good night’s rest. The house was very peaceful and we saw the farmer’s wife or older daughter from a distance with a small child, but that was it. We tried to dry our boots and wet kit in the little dry-room, charged our phones and had a wash, before enjoying a light tea.

Chris heats the porridge. We were grateful for the waterproof bag covers…

We both read our books – chairs provided for us, had another brew using a handy slate (probably provided for the purpose) and then when the light rain became irksome we turned in early – pleasantly tired and aiming for an early start the following morning.

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