Category Archives: nature

The Dales Way – Day 3

Grayrigg Farm was a pleasant arbour for the night. We had thought that the charge of £10 was for us both, but as we packed up, it became clear that this was per person. Nevertheless, the pasta and sauce we had had for tea had gone down well, and I’m not sure I’ve ever slept so well under canvas.

Sedburgh was our next target – a large town with a rugby team whom The Mount (our place of work) had faced before, and our night in a cottage in proper beds! I had booked it months in advance – and it turned out that it was a good thing I had.

We followed the river for a few miles and then turned away from it into farmland. The route was clear and it was difficult to go wrong. We crossed the railway and then found ourselves on a field of very large cows.

Now I’ve been in fields of cows before – but there were no houses or buildings in sight. The cows were stood directly across our path and it’s fair to say that both Chris and I were a little nervous. I edged to the right, put my head down and walked slowly but purposefully. It was fine, but it would be foolish to underestimate these animals.

Soon after we came across a line of American tourists being escorted on the opposite direction (the ‘proper’ route). It was the first group we’d encountered. It was a comfort to know that we’d come through what they still faced – but of course they would have felt the same way. We came across a viaduct and took some photos.

A few hours later after picking up another section of river we arrived in Sedburgh – whilst a cricket match was in progress. It turned out to be an England game! The town was packed. I was relieved that we’d booked the cottage in advance. We walked through the rugby pitches at the bank of Sedburgh school whilst training took place. There were a lot of posh wellies and dark green jackets on show amongst the spectators.

We ate a well earned tea at the pub without cooking a thing, or washing up. The pub was The Red Lion and I enjoyed a gammon steak – I can’t recall what Chris had. The cottage was pleasant and well furnished, with two separate rooms. After watching a little TV we discovered that the local Spar had a bakery inside with fresh pastries – a lucky find.

A refreshing night’s sleep followed (although the beds could have been firmer) and we were ready for Day 4.

The team’s come back out, but minutes later the rain took over.

The Dales Way – Day 2

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Day 2 dawned – still wet, with a chilly but windless morning. After worrying that Chris wasn’t going to rise at all (he had still been snoring at 830), we got going at about 10am – after spending 45 minutes breaking camp and re packing bags. Instead of racing on we knew that time was on our side, so elected for a full English at the very pleasant Wilf’s cafe in Staveley. Like many travelers, we had that strange sensation of feeling somewhat unwashed whilst sharing space with those who had slept in a bed: but a slightly smug feeling of knowing that we were engaged in a worthy challenge, whilst others went about ordinary business.

Food consumed, we retraced our steps, passed the friendly pub and got back onto the route.

The way was easy and the rain wasn’t constant, but appeared to give us rest breaks every now and then. We followed the river for several miles. About half way along the route we’d planned we got the stove on for a brew and snack whilst the rain hammered around us – having increased considerably, and some swans kept us company – also apparently sheltering from the weather. There were a few Hawthorns and a bank by a small copse of trees, that kept off the worst of the weather. We cleaned up and packed away before turning east towards Grayrigg – where we hoped to find a spot to camp. There were ducks and the odd bird of prey, but no human life and we both commented that we hadn’t seen anyone else walking the official route since we set off.

By 5pm we had consulted phones several times to make sure we had our route and were approaching Greyrigg Farm – at the foot of the fell. Rather than climb out and potentially spend a wind swept night on the fell without knowing the lie of the land I asked a gent working on a Land Rover whether he knew of a decent place to camp for the night on the leaward side of the fell. It turned out that he owned the farm and was very happy for us to camp in the long back garden of the farm house for a small fee. There was running water and a small dry room with a toilet and power (this felt like luxury!) – so we took him up. The garden itself was beautifully kept and the grass spongy – perfect for a good night’s rest. The house was very peaceful and we saw the farmer’s wife or older daughter from a distance with a small child, but that was it. We tried to dry our boots and wet kit in the little dry-room, charged our phones and had a wash, before enjoying a light tea.

Chris heats the porridge. We were grateful for the waterproof bag covers…

We both read our books – chairs provided for us, had another brew using a handy slate (probably provided for the purpose) and then when the light rain became irksome we turned in early – pleasantly tired and aiming for an early start the following morning.

The Dales Way: from Lakeland to Ilkley (Day 1)

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Late July 2023.

For some reason my good friend Chris and I took it into our heads to complete the 80 mile trek in 6 days a few months back and here we are; sheltering in our tents on the morning of Day 2.

Yesterday went remarkably well when all said and done. The forecast was awful but the rain held off until 6pm – by which time we had come off the heights around Bowness and were almost in Staveley. Staveley is a small place but perfectly formed. It nestles in the valley that carries the A591 to the larger town of Kendal in the East and to Lake Windermere and North Lakeland in the opposite direction.

That morning we had converged at Sheffield station to catch the train for Manchester. My ticket said MCR pclly (Pickadilly) – we duly alighted at Pickadilly and as we walked down the platform raised that our connection for Windermere was leaving (in ten minutes) from Oxford Street. We ran back onto the train and just made it.

The sunshine that welcomed us to Windermere in the early afternoon was a welcome tonic for any traveler. We slowly walked down the hill to Bowness, bought pasta and sauce from a store for tea and then I indulged in a chip butty. To anybody who has not done this – I highly recommend the combo of a white roll with cheap butter covered in salty chips and a sprinkle of vinegar – it is one of life’s great pleasures. We also asked the good staff at Vinegar Jones’s (the chippy) to refill or water carriers.

Having availed ourselves of the local facilities it was time for a photo by the lake which was thronged with tourists, as one would expect in summer. One obliged by taking a few photos of Chris and I, then after a final restorative ice lolly we set off to completed the Dales way – in reverse (the recommended route starts in Ilkley).

The first section is quite steep as you climb out of Bowness onto School Fell but then it became easier – gentle hills and a good path. We spoke to some friendly walkers and had our first ‘doing the Dales Way’ conversation. I managed to get slightly wedged in a wooden kiss gate because my pack is rather large!

The weather was fine and we continued East without mishap until about 6pm when it started raining. Fortunately, we were almost in Staveley by this time. We both fancied a drink and a quick Google search revealed that the Hawks-head brewery was open for another couple of hours. I’m certain that our pace increased at this point. We arrived at the bar tired but feeling slightly smug that we could get a well earned drink (although no food was available at that time). There was a great atmosphere with many locals and travelers taking advantage of the good ale selection and live music – all of which was a pleasant surprise for Chris and myself.

About half 8 when the pub was about to close we set off again aiming for a camping spot by the river. By now the rain was heavy and we took shelter under the gazebo at another pub – The Eagle and Child. When the bar staff heard our quandary re camping the landlord kindly gave us permission to camp under the gazebo (as long as we left no trace) – very likely giving us a much drier night. We were very grateful and enjoyed a pint & chatting to a few locals while the rain drummed on the gazebo roof, and Chris began to cook sausage and smash. Coincidentally some of the punters were soon traveling to Australia (Chris’s home country).

We turned in at about 1030 feeling pretty good about our luck (considering the largely dry day we’d had and the kindly publican). I woke this morning with a stiff back – I probably should have used the grass instead of the wooden stage as my mattress – but I’d had some rest and was hungry. That was thirty minutes ago.

Chris is taking a while to surface! Let’s see what the next 24 hours will bring.

Matt

Great beer flight at Hawkshead brewery, Staveley

Stop

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Collaborate and listen…

Kids, work, family, home, finances, future, friends, fitness, attitude – too much to carry all at once – making the delicate parts of your exo skeleton brittle, and bones more brittle still; anyone struggles with excess stress and all of a sudden

SNAP

You’re broken

Not completely blameless

Because you could have foreseen that carrying so much weight would exert too much downward pressure.

Sometimes we just need to stop.

To take the pulse of the world.

To listen. To really look around at what we see. Only then can our damaged & fragile lenses comprehend the imperative. We all need a little space. A little silence. A little time.

Now and then.

Unplug _-_ and restart…

(system restored)

Matt Scholes, England, August 2023

Wark (Northumberland), day 2

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Salmon & Eggs

After a breakfast of the same we packed the car for a day at Keilder Forest park. It was time to use the bikes which Archie and I had prepped and loaded onto the bike rack before departure.

Having looked online it was just a thirty minute drive to the Tower car park, we arrived shortly after ten. There were only two other vehicles in the car park; I mean I know it’s the week before Easter but this is definitely not the Lake District (lovely, but often packed with people). I was enjoying the isolation and lack of traffic.

I had planned an 11 mile route which I had seen on the website, but on arrival we could see the other side of the lake clearly, the sun was shining – and I thought – let’s do a lap! I hadn’t actually measured it, but I knew that we could stop at Keilder castle (loosely named) for food at about half way.

The cycle route was great but the north shore is very hilly – even more so than the south shore, and Eleanor, our youngest, did struggle a little. At one point, after sliding off into a banking, she was all for giving up (mild panic from yours truly as I realised how far from civilisation we were), but with some encouragement and paracetamol she got back in the saddle. When I reached the base of that hill to find Archie being looked after by a kind lady – as he had apparently come off too – I began to think it was one of those days, but he was fine, thankfully. My children cannot use gears or breaks as they think they know better! I can’t expect all of my advice to be listened to – practical experience is necessary!

Some great pork and apple sandwiches from the stall at Keilder were a superb restorative, and just over an hour later we were back on our way – under the viaduct and back onto the Lakeshore trail.

I confess that the last 6 miles were tough. I was beginning to regret my enthusiasm a little – but I was fortified by the knowledge that we may not return to the area for several years, if ever again with the kids. Ice-cream helped, and when we arrived back at the car I was really pleased with what we’d all achieved – 25 miles of undulating trail.

Oh return to Battlesteads we took turns in the spa bath which did the muscles a power of good. I’ll give myself some credit for that – the pre-booking research paid off.

Onwards.

Wark (Northumberland), day 1

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April 2023

Northumbria is somewhere I have long wanted to visit and never had the opportunity. Yesterday that changed and the adventure with my family began.

Battlesteads Hotel – the menu and a pint of pale ale

A gorgeous gentle walk along the daffodil lined Tyne near Wark was a great start. We saw deer and oyster catchers. We then ate dinner at Battlesteads Hotel & Restaurant (great fish) before paying a fairly hefty £55 for a family ticket to the Dark Skies Observatory. However, as anyone who has been to an established Observatory will know, this was a great experience. The weather was ideal for star gazing, although ironically the moon was slightly too bright with 90% luminosity (which spoilt one’s night vision a little); and we witnessed satellites, a shooting star and some great close ups of the moon through the telescope. The informative talk also included explanations of black holes and super novas and took around 1 hour and 45 minutes. The temperature dropped after ten pm, but that didn’t deter a number of hardy individuals.